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A Journey Down Route 66, Day Thirteen

*NOTE:  Five years ago I began a journey across the country with Thiel, a dear friend of mine.  I was moving from Chicago to Long Beach, California, and she agreed to make the drive with me.  I present my journal of that journey on the corresponding day that it was recorded five years ago.  Enjoy reliving this adventure with me!

Day 13:  January 15, 2014

Our motel room came with breakfast in the morning in the lobby.  We expected muffins and coffee, but there was a lot more.  We fueled ourselves and hit the road.  After Kingman, Arizona, the longest remaining single stretch of Route 66 in Arizona winds through mountains and desert-like terrain.  The speed limit is 15 MPH at points.  The roadway snakes around, switching back on itself and hugging the edge of the mountains.  There were points at which Thiel couldn’t even bring herself to look out her side window because she was right on the edge of a dropoff.

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Anybody hungry?

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These iconic ads are all along the road.

At one point there was a pulloff with a view, so we stopped.  There were several other people there as well.  We walked to the top of the point and were treated to a sweeping, panoramic view.  After being there for a few minutes we realized that all down the hill below us were crosses with peoples’ names on them.  Some of them had items around them like most memorial sites do.  Everyone there started trying to figure out if it was a cemetery or if all these people had died on the road, or what else it could be.  There was no way that these were graves; it was a rock surface.  I had been to this spot before a few years ago and didn’t remember any such thing being there, so it seems as if it’s relatively new.  One of the other people there ventured the guess that maybe it was a memorial site for people whose ashes had been scattered there.  There was no sign or anything to indicate what it could be.

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RIP.

At the end of this stretch of road stands Oatman, Arizona, which is a very small town, but it was extremely crowded.  A row of shops, a hotel, and loads of tourists greeted us as we pulled into town.  However, the best thing about it is the burros that freely wander the streets, walking straight up to your car and expecting to be fed.  Naturally it’s very slow going through this one-block town, so we crept along and were approached by two or three donkeys as we passed through.  We didn’t stop but watched as people fed huddles of the animals.  I had heard one braying when we first stopped at the overlook/memorial site just before we arrived.  This town seems to be one of the ones that’s doing quite well on the old road, and it’s very far removed from the interstate.  I guess their donkeys have kept them alive.

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Oatman, AZ.

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The road straightened up and there were loooooong stretches through the Mojave Desert, and we jumped back on the interstate for a short jaunt across the Colorado River into California, getting back off on the old road and losing our way for a little while in Needles, California.  We righted our course and drove along until it got dark and we finally reached the LA area.  I have, at long last, reached Long Beach and my new apartment, which I like a lot.  I’m told there was an earthquake the night before we arrived of 4.4 on the Richter scale, but my roommates slept through it and didn’t feel a thing.

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At the La Brea Tar Pits in Los Angeles, CA.

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Los Angeles, CA.

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Griffith Observatory, Los Angeles.

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Have you found the orbit of Uranus?

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Palm tree-lined streets in LA.

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The Witch House of Beverly Hills.

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Bird of Paradise.

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Thiel before a California sunset.

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Me watching the sunset.

So the Great American Road Trip is at an end.  We have watched winter disappear behind us.  There have been moments of fear and worry.  Tempers have flared and calmed.  You really need to like the person you’re traveling with very much in order to do something like this; otherwise there may be murder afoot.  This is a large country with wildly varying cultures, climates, and terrain.  I’m happy that I’ve had the opportunity to see a lot of it.  From Kathy Strong, author of Off the Beaten Path:  Southern California:  “Take the main roads, you’re a tourist…Take the back roads, you’re a traveler.”

Now it’s time to focus on finding a job, getting settled in my new place, figuring out public transportation, and seeing what the future holds for me here.  It already feels better just being here, and I know that this was the right decision for me at this time.  Here goes!

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A Journey Down Route 66, Day Twelve

*NOTE:  Five years ago I began a journey across the country with Thiel, a dear friend of mine.  I was moving from Chicago to Long Beach, California, and she agreed to make the drive with me.  I present my journal of that journey on the corresponding day that it was recorded five years ago.  Enjoy reliving this adventure with me!

Day 12:  January 14, 2014

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We got up and had our breakfast in the motel’s restaurant for $2.99 each plus tax.  I ordered a glass of orange juice, which also cost $2.99.  When we finished we headed up to the Grand Canyon, passing by the Santa Fe Peaks and Humphrey’s Point, the highest point in Arizona, on the way.  It was about 70 miles or so from Flagstaff, and on the way in to the park there’s a scenic overlook, sort of a pre-canyon sample.

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Preamble to the Grand Canyon, AZ.

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Preamble to my subsequent life in California.  LOL!

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There were booths set up where Native Americans were selling jewelry, dream catchers, and the like.  Thiel did some shopping and bought a necklace.  The first booth we stopped by was manned by an old woman who told us that she made all the necklaces herself.  We were looking at the pieces and I glanced up at her to find that she was staring at me.  I looked away quickly, then looked back again and she was still staring at me.  This happened three times.  It was a little unsettling.  Of course I was hoping that she was going to tell me something profound, like maybe she was psychic or something and could pick up on some information from me, but she didn’t say anything.  Maybe she just thought I was cute.

We drove on into Grand Canyon National Park, where there’s a $25 vehicle fee as you enter.  It was a beautiful day for it, chilly but clear and sunny.  Thiel had never been before so she was excited.  We pulled off at the first viewpoint and walked along the trail to the rim.  There were quite a few people, mostly from other countries.  As we approached the canyon I looked back at Thiel and saw that she was overcome with emotion, trying to hold it back, but tears were spilling out of her eyes.  I squeezed the back of her neck and said something about how amazing it is, trying to let her have her moment.  This was my third time seeing it and, although it’s never the same as your first time, it’s still completely awe-inspiring.

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The intrepid travelers arrive at the Grand Canyon.

We drove along the rim, stopping at every pulloff point.

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The Grand Canyon, AZ.

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This structure was one of the stops along the rim.  I bought a book in the gift shop and immediately left it in the restroom.  I called them later and asked if anyone had turned it in; no one had, but they researched their records, saw that one of those particular books had been sold on the date of my visit, and were so kind as to send me a new one for free!

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The Colorado River, which created this gorgeousness, a mile below.

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There had apparently been a fire.

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We were there for about three hours until we reached the last point at which you are allowed to drive yourself.  From there on it’s a bus tour.  We didn’t have time for that so we left and went back down to Flagstaff and westward on Route 66.

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We stopped in Williams, Arizona, which is a cute small town that’s still thriving despite the interstate passing through the outskirts of it; it didn’t suffer the same fate that most towns along Route 66 did when the interstate highway system was built.  We found a dear little motel, The Lodge on Route 66, which was probably our favorite of the entire trip.

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It was remodeled in the last few years and the rooms were very modern and very nice.  I couldn’t believe what we got for the price.  Of course it is the off season, but still it was a really good value.  I think there were two other cars in the entire place besides ours.  At last, the big final push to Long Beach was upon us.

A Journey Down Route 66, Day Eleven

*NOTE:  Five years ago I began a journey across the country with Thiel, a dear friend of mine.  I was moving from Chicago to Long Beach, California, and she agreed to make the drive with me.  I present my journal of that journey on the corresponding day that it was recorded five years ago.  Enjoy reliving this adventure with me!

Day 11:  January 13, 2014

I got up early this morning and started getting ready.  The bathroom in the wigwam was kind of cold, so I turned on the hot water in the shower to warm it up in there.  I let it run for a few minutes, then got in and started lathering up.  I wasn’t even halfway through when the water started to get cooler, and fast.  I turned down the cold water, but it just got completely cold anyway.  I turned it off and just turned it on as I needed it to lather up a washcloth or to rinse it out.  No fun first thing in the morning!  I told Thiel to wait a little while to see if we got more hot water, but she just decided to go without showering so we could get out of there.  I called the office and got an answering machine, which told me that the office is open from 4:00 PM to 9:00 PM!  Um…what if there’s a problem during the day, something like, maybe NOT HAVING ANY HOT WATER?!?  I left a message for them but never heard a peep so far.  That, I think, deserves some kind of refund or credit, as a hot shower is a basic part of one’s expectations from a place of hospitality.  The water had become just barely warm again by the time we were ready to leave, but it was too little too late.

We went straight to Petrified Forest National Park, paid our $10 entrance fee, and went to the visitor center.  We walked around a little trail behind the building and looked at all the petrified logs littering the landscape, then drove through the park.  It’s a 28-mile road with pulloffs for good views, and side trips to interesting features of the park, and it connects with the Painted Desert, which is really beautiful.  Such vibrant colors layered on top of each other; it really is stunning.

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Petrified Forest National Park, AZ.

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Thiel on a petrified log.

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Petrified wood.

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The Painted Desert, AZ.

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Petroglyphs in Arizona.

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An abandoned car in the Arizona desert.

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The old road is virtually nonexistent in that area, so we took the interstate a few miles and exited for Meteor Crater, which is the first positively identified and best-preserved impact crater on the planet.  It was featured in the movie Starman.  It was amazing.  It’s 550 feet deep (about 60 stories), two and a half miles around the rim, and almost a mile across.  They said that you could have 20 football fields in the bottom and two million people in a stadium built up the sides watching the 20 football games simultaneously.  It was caused by a meteor, only 150 feet across, which crashed into the site 50,000 years ago.  They figure that an impact like that should occur once every 50,000 years.  So I guess we’re due.

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Meteor Crater, AZ.

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Me at the meteor crater.

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Thiel at the meteor crater.

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We returned to the interstate and drove to the next place with old roadway that you can drive on, which was Winona, Arizona.  We took the old road into Flagstaff, which is relatively near the Grand Canyon.  It’s cold here and there is snow and ice in places.  We’re pretty high up.

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We decided to try to see if we could get a room at the Grand Canyon, as we ran out of daylight today to try to make it there and view it, but rooms there are very expensive.  We found a cute little motel in Flagstaff, checked in, and went downtown to find some food.

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Our lodging in Flagstaff, AZ.

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We ended up at a pizza place.  We sat in a booth that was tiny.  Thiel ordered soup and a salad and I ordered a small pizza.  The server told me that a small is pretty big, but I told her that was fine, as I would take the leftovers with me and have them later.  When the food came, everything was so gigantic that we had to move to a bigger table, as ours couldn’t even fit the pizza and the soup, much less the salad!  It was kind of ridiculous.  The “small” pizza was the size of a medium pizza in most places I’ve ever eaten.  Thiel didn’t even touch her salad; she packed it to go.  That’ll be a midnight snack or maybe lunch tomorrow.

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Dinner in Flagstaff, AZ.

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Our miniscule booth at Alpine Pizza in Flagstaff, AZ.

When I checked in at the motel the front desk clerk told me that their attached restaurant (which is Greek—odd) is very good, and they serve a homemade breakfast starting at 7:00 AM for $3.00.  THREE.  DOLLARS.  Come again?!?  Needless to say, that’s where we’re planning on having breakfast in the morning.  So…we’ll see if we can make it to Long Beach tomorrow night.  It takes a lot longer to cross these large states, and distances here are deceiving.  What looks like it’s just across the valley from where you’re standing is actually several miles in the distance.  It’s really mind-boggling sometimes.  I think, though, that I’ve seen everything that I’d hoped to on my way out to my new life, so I’m feeling ready to roll on in and finally see my new apartment, my new roommates, and figure out what’s going to happen next.

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A Journey Down Route 66, Day Ten

*NOTE:  Five years ago I began a journey across the country with Thiel, a dear friend of mine.  I was moving from Chicago to Long Beach, California, and she agreed to make the drive with me.  I present my journal of that journey on the corresponding day that it was recorded five years ago.  Enjoy reliving this adventure with me!

Day 10:  January 12, 2014

We bid a fond adieu to Santa Fe this morning.  Almost as soon as we pulled out of the motel parking lot a light came on in the car.  It was an exclamation point over a curved squiggly line or something like that.  I had a vague inkling that it had something to do with the tires, then I noticed that the trip odometer had disappeared and it was flashing “CHECK TIRE PRESSURE.”  I stopped at the first gas station I saw, but their air pump was broken.  Of course.  There was another station just down the street and I went there.  I filled all the tires as close as I could to capacity, according to the pressure gauge built into the air hose.  The left back tire was pretty low, so I’m assuming that that’s what the problem was.  The cap on the nozzle was missing, but I don’t think that affects the air pressure.  Then again, I have virtually no knowledge of car stuff.  After I finished checking all the tires I restarted the car and the alert disappeared.  I wonder if the change in altitude could have affected the tire pressure.

We had to take the interstate for a few miles at this point because the old road either doesn’t exist or keeps running into dead ends, and we rejoined the old route at Algodones, New Mexico.  Not much to see here, as we were wending our way into Albuquerque, which, unlike Santa Fe, does have a skyline.  This was our daily getting-lost time (it seems to be necessary to happen at least once a day), and we had to stop and ask directions twice since our instructions were inaccurate.  We found our way out of the city and began passing through Native American reservations from time to time.

It’s profoundly affecting for me to reflect on the state of Native Americans on reservations in modern times.  As soon as you cross the border of one you can tell the difference—at least the ones I’ve experienced, in my opinion.  These people were here first, and they have been relegated to the most undesirable lands that exist in this country, with no assistance for infrastructure from the US government, as I understand it.  When I think about how it must have been to be a Native American person during the time that Europeans suddenly started appearing and asserting their “rights” to whatever they wanted, it really breaks my heart.  There is a deeply tragic history to this country that goes untold in classrooms.  Horrific things were done to these people, and they had to simply accept that things were changing rapidly, and not in their favor.  How impotent they must have felt!  They didn’t have firearms.  They didn’t have immunity to the new diseases that these people brought with them.  Can you imagine someone barging into your house and simply stating that they want it and you can’t do anything about it?  They tell you to disappear or they will make sure that you do…such a violation.

There was a long stretch of the old road that ran through the middle of nowhere until it rejoined the interstate again.

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The wind was gusting up to 48 MPH today, so that made the car knock around pretty steadily.  Temperatures were approaching 70 degrees, and there were many tumbleweeds dashing across the road in front of us.  We ran across an abandoned bar.  It was a small building in the middle of nowhere, but within sight (about a mile) of the interstate.  As we passed it I wondered if we should pull off and stop, but we kept going.  However, there emerged a question about our next steps to keep with the road and I pulled off to the side to consult the atlas and the books.  I decided that I wanted to turn around and go back to the bar; for some reason I felt compelled to check it out.  There was a giant, non-working neon sign on a big tower that said BAR so it could be seen from a distance.  And distance is all there is out there.  When we pulled up to it there was another car in the parking lot.  The driver’s side door was open and there was a woman peering into the window of the building.  Her license plate said Maryland.  She started to walk back to her car as we got out of ours.

“Is there anything in there?” I asked her.

“There used to be,” she said.  “But you can see really well in the windows.”

“Good!” I said.

There was still a bar in there, and the food and very limited drink menu were still visible on chalkboards over the bar.  There was a pool table in the front left corner.  It seemed as though it had been vacant for some time, but the price of a beer was $4.00, and beer to go was $10.00, so it doesn’t seem as if it could be all that long since it was abandoned, as those prices don’t seem so far removed from reality.  It was so quiet there except for the constantly blowing wind.  I walked around the whole building to see if there was a way in, but there wasn’t, alas.  I’m such a wannabe trespasser!

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Abandoned bar in the middle of nowhere in New Mexico.

At Grants, New Mexico, we wanted to veer off and go to see the Ice Caves, but we called before we reached Grants and found out that they’re closed for the season.  They’re apparently caves that have ice inside them year-round.  Next we crossed the Continental Divide, which I’d heard of, but wasn’t sure what it was.  It’s the point at which water on the west side drains to the Pacific Ocean, and water on the east side drains to the Atlantic, via the Gulf of Mexico.  We stopped at an Indian trading post and I finally found a Route 66 T-shirt that I liked.  Thiel bought some Native American earrings.  She inquired about the price of a necklace, but it was over $500.  I’m sure it was worth it if you could afford it, but watching her try to hide the reaction on her face when told the price was delicious.

Of course we got confused and thought we were lost just after dark, when it’s hardest to figure out where the hell you are.  Turns out we were on course, but apparently the towns listed that we were supposed to pass through either moved or disappeared.  We did pass Fort Yellowhorse, which is still in use now as another trading post, but was built as a movie set for the 1950 Kirk Douglas film The Big Carnival, which I have neither heard of nor seen.  Now I’ll be sure to try to see it.

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Fort Yellowhorse, New Mexico.

Soon after this point our book advised us to jump back on the interstate, as the road is broken up into chunks of dead ends.  This was the longest we’ve had to stay off the old course.  We realized, to our delight, that the next exit where we could rejoin the old road was in Holbrook, Arizona, which is where there exists a Wigwam Motel.  I grew up in South Central Kentucky, about 30 miles from Horse Cave, Kentucky, where there is another Wigwam Motel, and I have always wanted to sleep in one.  I never did it while I lived so close to one.  Our guidebook said that you usually need reservations, but we figured that, since we’re traveling in the off-season, we might get lucky.  We called and they told us that they had two wigwams available.  They said that we could just come and get one if we’d arrive by 9:00 PM, when the office closes, or we could make a reservation if we couldn’t make it by then and they’d leave the key for us.  Just in case, we made a reservation.  The speed limit out here on the interstate is 75 MPH, so we made really good time, and arrived at the motel around 8:00 PM.  Tonight I sleep in a wigwam!

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Inside the wigwam.

We went to dinner at an Italian restaurant in town.  It’s very deserted here, and things close very early.  We wanted to go to a bar to experience the local flavor.  Our server at dinner told us that the bar down the street closes at 10 PM!  We did end up going there for a drink and were told that they close whenever they want, whenever there is nobody left in there.  I guess the cutoff time is 2:00 AM, so they have the option of staying open until then.

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At the bar in Holbrook.

Holbrook is a very cute town with lots of touristy-looking things around.  I look forward to seeing it in the daylight.  We’re at high elevation now, so the temperature is cold again, and we have had glimpses of snow on the ground.  Looking forward to tomorrow.  This part of the country is very beautiful and every turn in the road has a surprise on the horizon.  Thiel has never seen the Grand Canyon, so tomorrow we’ll be checking that off her list.

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Wigwam Motel, Holbrook, AZ.

A Journey Down Route 66, Day Nine

*NOTE:  Five years ago I began a journey across the country with Thiel, a dear friend of mine.  I was moving from Chicago to Long Beach, California, and she agreed to make the drive with me.  I present my journal of that journey on the corresponding day that it was recorded five years ago.  Enjoy reliving this adventure with me!

Day 9:  January 11, 2014

Cleared out of Amarillo via the Cadillac Ranch, which is a big field on the side of the road in which a group of artists upended ten Cadillacs in the ground in the 1970s and the back ends of them are sticking out at an angle.  Since then, unfortunately, all the cars have been completely covered in graffiti.  I’m not sure if that was the intention of the artists or not.  A huge area of the field around them was covered in garbage, most of it spray paint bottles.  People just pick them up and use what’s left in them to tag the cars.  I finally picked one up and shot a little dot of paint on one of the cars just because everyone else seems to do it.

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In Adrian, Texas, we passed the supposed exact midpoint of the road, where it’s exactly the same distance from there to LA as it is to Chicago.  Halfway there.  Day nine.  Yeesh.

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Almost as soon as we crossed the border into New Mexico the terrain completely changed.  Now it really looked like the southwest one always pictures:  Sweeping, panoramic views of mesas in the distance, red rock, scrub brush, mountains on the horizon with snowy peaks.  We had to get on the interstate for a while because the conditions of the old road are impassable, so that sped us along for a little bit.  Once we got off we promptly got on the wrong road and took it deep into the wilderness, then realized we were wrong and came back out on the right course, but we didn’t have too much of that happening today.

We passed through another ghost town, then there was a long section of the road that is now gravel, so that was slow going at points, as it could be rough, but here we—well, I—saw a roadrunner run across the road in front of us.  Thiel was reading something in one of our many books or maps.  It was almost 70 degrees today and the skies were beautifully blue.  We reached another long stretch in which it was necessary to take the interstate because the road was in patches that went to dead ends, so once again we gained some time back from that.

There’s a place in Santa Rosa called Blue Hole.  It’s a pool of blue water 81 feet deep, popular with SCUBA divers.  The water is so clear that you can see all the way to the bottom.  I don’t know what makes it so blue; it’s not blue like the ocean, where it reflects the color of the sky.  The water looks to be actually blue, but it’s crystal clear at the same time.  I’m not sure if it’s a spring, but I would assume so, because it is a big circular pool of water, then it flows away in a small stream.

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Exiting the interstate, we drove on the old road into Santa Fe and arrived at dusk.  It’s such a charming city; you’d never know you were in a city, as they don’t allow any tall buildings to be built.  The majority of buildings here are adobe structures, and they blend into the landscape, so even when you’re up high with a vantage point over the city you can’t tell you’re really in a city.  It has a lot of character.  I really love adobe architecture, stucco, Spanish tile and the like.

I had originally wanted to move on and get to the Arizona border before stopping for the night, but I’m tired of driving, and tired in general, so we had dinner at a place called Cowgirl.  Thiel has been wanting to get some barbecue and she finally did.  We found a motel and are calling it a night.  We plan to get up really early tomorrow and move on into Arizona and points beyond.  Ideally I’d love to reach Long Beach late tomorrow night, but I don’t know if that’s feasible or not.  It depends on how many stops we make, how many times we get lost (knock on wood), and road conditions.  We’re up in the mountains now, and we saw patches of snow on the roadside on the way up here.  It’s much cooler up here than it was in the lower country earlier today.

Oh…and people are getting more attractive again out here.

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A Journey Down Route 66, Day Eight

*NOTE:  Five years ago I began a journey across the country with Thiel, a dear friend of mine.  I was moving from Chicago to Long Beach, California, and she agreed to make the drive with me.  I present my journal of that journey on the corresponding day that it was recorded five years ago.  Enjoy reliving this adventure with me!

Day 8:  January 10, 2014

Onward!  We left Edmond, Oklahoma and drove through Oklahoma City, snapping photos of a big roadside milk bottle from back in the day.

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True to form, we got lost soon after and it took us at least an hour to get ourselves back on track.  We passed through Yukon, Oklahoma, hometown of Garth Brooks, and this is where the Midwest gives way to the West.  There were vast open stretches of road.  The sky was clear and blue and it was almost 60 degrees.  There has been no trace of snow on the ground for the past two days and we welcome that wholeheartedly.  Most of the time we were the only car in sight in either direction.

Most of the day was spent driving, and the old road was pretty straight, so we made decent time…when we weren’t lost.  I think doing this one time is enough, as it’s so confusing to keep up with a road that doesn’t officially exist any more that it can waste a lot of time trying to figure out just how in the world you’re suddenly off course and on a dirt road in the middle of what is probably someone’s ranch.  Yes, folks, we plunged off pavement at least twice with no warning.  That’s a treat.

In Elk City, Oklahoma, there’s the National Route 66 Museum, which was pretty large and looked really cool, but we didn’t have time to stop.  This has already taken a lot longer than I’d anticipated due to the weather hazards we had to endure at the beginning of the journey.  Must!  Press!  On!

There was one stretch of road for a few miles in which the oldest part of the road ran parallel to the roadway that’s currently in use.  It was overgrown and so fascinating to me that I pulled off and we walked along it for a little way, making some pictures.

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I reflected on how many people had driven that old pavement on their way to California, possibly following a dream of stardom or just wanting to start a new life somewhere else, as I am, and how quickly things can change.  It’s less than 100 years since the original road was in use and nature is already reclaiming it.  In a few more years it’ll be lost completely.  Oh, life….

After this we trundled into Texola, which is basically a ghost town.  There are several buildings still standing in ruin.  It was later in the day and the sun was starting to go down, so it was a good time to visit this place.  After dark I think it would have been creepy.

Entering Texas, we passed the U Drop Inn, an art deco former roadside stop that now houses the Shamrock, Texas Chamber of Commerce.  Driving after dark, our instructions told us to go to a town called Jericho, which was nowhere to be found on the atlas or any other map we consulted.  We backtracked and, just on a hunch, I pulled over where there was a historical marker and it told us we were at the Jericho Cemetery.  No town anywhere to be seen but apparently there’s a cemetery near there that exists from when the town did.  We turned down the road across from the marker and it was unpaved, but eventually emptied out onto pavement again.  We zoomed on down a really straight stretch for several miles until suddenly we were confronted with signs that the road was going to dead end in a half mile.  Thanks for the warning!  We had to backtrack yet again, and realized that had we read far enough ahead in our turn-by-turn instructions that we would have turned about nine miles back.

We made it to Amarillo and stopped at a fast food taco place for dinner.  We’d hoped to go out on the town, as it was Friday night, but we were super tired and just wanted to get a place to stay for the night, so we went on the hunt for that.  There were tons of motels around, but the area of the city with the highest concentration of them was a bit seedy, so we went across town and finally found a place to lay our weary heads.  As it turns out, our room was right next to an on-site laundry room!  Jackpot!

P. S.  Breathe-Rite Strips didn’t work so well last night.

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A Journey Down Route 66, Day Seven

*NOTE:  Five years ago I began a journey across the country with Thiel, a dear friend of mine.  I was moving from Chicago to Long Beach, California, and she agreed to make the drive with me.  I present my journal of that journey on the corresponding day that it was recorded five years ago.  Enjoy reliving this adventure with me!

Day 7:  January 9, 2014

I woke up rested and back to my normal, sparkling personality.  We got a later start to our day because I knew I needed to sleep as much as possible.  We checked out of the motel at 11:00, right on the dot of checkout time, and headed out.  It’s been around 40 degrees for the last couple of days, which feels warm.  It was gloomy and misty out, but the only snow on the ground was patchy and slushy.  I was excited to see that we’re finally getting out of it.

We drove to Foyil, Oklahoma, to a roadside totem pole park to see the world’s largest totem pole.

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The World’s Largest Totem Pole, Foyil, OK.

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Me (teeny tiny on the bottom left of the base) and the World’s Largest Totem Pole, Foyil, OK.

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Thiel (teeny tiny on the bottom right of the base) and the World’s Largest Totem Pole, Foyil, OK.

Following that we stopped to eat and then went on to Catoosa, Oklahoma, to see the Catoosa Whale, a big blue whale in a pond that was part of a small roadside amusement park built in the 1970s.  You can go in its mouth and there are slides out either side of its body into the pond.  Swimming is no longer allowed in the pond, but the whale is being preserved and is a great piece of Americana.

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The Catoosa Whale, Catoosa, OK.

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Thiel and the Catoosa Whale, Catoosa, OK.

Next was Tulsa, Oklahoma, where we went to Oral Roberts University because one of my guidebooks told of a kitschy-sounding walk-through presentation of the first seven books of the Bible inside the Prayer Needle in the middle of campus.  After being confronted with a MASSIVE sculpture of praying hands at the entrance, we found parking near where we needed to go.  We got to the Prayer Needle only to be told that they no longer have the presentation, so we used the holy bathroom and moved on.  For some reason the Prayer Needle had a pole on top of it with flames coming out of it.  Not sure what that symbolizes.  There was another building nearby with a giant basin in front of it with another pillar of flame coming out of it.

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Oral Roberts University, Tulsa, OK.

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The Prayer Needle at Oral Roberts University, Tulsa, OK.

We got lost a couple of times after Tulsa but regained our course.  There were some great stretches of the original 1926 road that we got to veer off on from time to time, but for the most part it was newer highway with speed limits of 65 MPH.  For some reason when it gets dark, oncoming traffic seems to think that my lights are on bright; they’re always flashing their brights at me.  I’m very conscientious when driving and always aware of dimming my lights for other drivers.  I flash them back to let them know that I’m already dimmed, but it’s very frequent that someone does it to me.  I don’t know what it is about my headlights.  They must just be very bright.

The weather challenge for the past couple of days has been fog that develops at night.  It’s hard to see very far in it sometimes and that prevents us from keeping up speed.  We reached Arcadia, Oklahoma after dark.  There’s a historic round barn there.  It was closed, of course, when we reached it, but we took some pictures and went on to Pops, which is a new roadside attraction.  It’s a café with all kinds of different sodas and a snack shop.  Outside is a giant soda bottle with a straw sticking out of it.  It’s lit up and changes colors.  You can’t miss it.

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The Round Barn, Arcadia, OK.

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The soda bottle at Pops, Arcadia, OK.

We stopped for the night in Edmond, Oklahoma, a suburb of Oklahoma City.  We got some dinner, then tried to find a laundromat but to no avail.  I gave up searching and went to Target to buy some underwear, as that’s not something I’d like to repeat wearing.  I tried to find a liquor store with my GPS to get a bottle of wine to take back to the room with us, but every one I went to was closed, and it was only 10:00 PM!  I stopped at a 7-Eleven and they had beer.  There was a cute guy next to me looking at the beer and I asked him if they sell wine.  He said no, only beer.  I told him that all the liquor stores I could find were closed and he told me that the liquor stores in Oklahoma all close at 9:00 PM.

“You’re kidding!” I said incredulously.

“No, in Oklahoma they close at nine.  After that it’s beer or nothin’,” he said.

I bought a six-pack of Bud Light and we went back to our room.  My boss had given me a bottle of pink champagne on my last night at work so we opened that and toasted to the end of winter on our journey.  Maybe we’ll save the beer for later.

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Thiel, the worthy navigator, buried under maps, books, and CDs.

A Journey Down Route 66, Day Six

*NOTE:  Five years ago I began a journey across the country with Thiel, a dear friend of mine.  I was moving from Chicago to Long Beach, California, and she agreed to make the drive with me.  I present my journal of that journey on the corresponding day that it was recorded five years ago.  Enjoy reliving this adventure with me!

Day 6:  January 8, 2014

It’s 1:40 AM and I can’t sleep.  I went to bed and fell asleep, but I’m a light sleeper and I was awakened by a loud banging noise.  Then I heard someone yelling, and then what I thought was another person laughing loudly in response to the first person yelling.  It sounded like they were right outside our room so it made me worried that someone would get into the car, so I looked outside.  Not a sign of anyone out there, so I laid back down.  Soon I realized that I could hear all of this through the apparently paper-thin wall between our room and the next one.  At this point it seems that the “conversation” next door is being held by one person.  Between the rantings of the lunatic in the next room and Thiel’s incessant, foundation-jarring snoring, it doesn’t seem that I’m meant for much shuteye tonight.  I often don’t sleep well, and can function on a much smaller amount of sleep than many people I know, but I don’t look forward to driving in the morning on the amount of sleep it looks like I may manage to eke out tonight.

The man next door keeps yelling and occasionally banging on the wall or something in his room, then he’ll play a bit of music.  For the first 20 minutes or so I worried that maybe something dangerous was going on over there, but at this point it seems that he’s either high on something or stark raving mad, and hopefully that whole mess will be contained to that room.  I can hear almost every word until the heat in our room kicks on, then it’s just background noise until it goes off again.

First thing in the morning we’re getting Thiel some Breathe-Rite strips.  I pray that they work.

Now the guy in the next room (we’ll call him Cray Cray for short) is saying, “Get OUT OF MY ROOM!”  I don’t hear a response from anyone else, and I really don’t think there’s anybody physically there besides him—note that I said physically there.  It’s kinda creepy.  Now he’s crying and wailing.  Seconds later he’s saying, “Get your motherfucking hand off my knee!”  Terrifying.  I’m going to read through my travel books and figure out what I may want to see further down the road should I happen to survive this night.

Thiel’s snoring suddenly stopped and I managed to snag a little bit of fitful sleep between bouts of shrieking from Cray Cray next door.  I woke up again due to his noisemaking and put my ear to the wall to listen.  It woke Thiel up and she asked me what was going on.  I explained what had been happening all night.  It was 4:00 AM at this point.  We’ve decided to just go ahead and get ready and leave.  I’m going to tell the people at the front desk what’s happening, and I may call or stop by the police station to let them know someone in that room needs some serious help.  Not quite sure what to do; at times it sounded as if he may have had someone else in there with him, but at other times it sounded like it was all him.  Of course as soon as we decided to just get our day started there hasn’t been another peep out of him.  Asshole.  All I could think of was The Silence of the Lambs and how horrible it would be if he had someone in that room and we didn’t do anything to help.  We’ll see what happens.  If they tell me there’s nobody in that room at all I may need to be committed.

We checked out of the motel.  It was so early that I had to ring the bell and wake the proprietor to return my key and tell her about the incident next door.  She apologized and I told her that it was OK, but that it was really bizarre.  I asked her if she knew him and she said he’s staying for a week.  She said that he was weird.  Yeah.  Slightly.  She said that she would say something to him about it.

I decided to find the nearest police station and tell them about it just to ease my conscience in case he had someone in there.  There were times that it sounded as if he was yelling at someone and there would be an occasional tearful-sounding response, but I also felt as if he was moving around the room and answering himself.  It still creeps me out to think about it.  He was directly across the wall from me most of the time, so I could hear it all, and to be that close to ravings like that was very uncomfortable for me.  I just felt as if there was a tsunami of really bad energy flowing over me through the wall.  I laid there and tried to concentrate on sending good vibes through to him before I finally decided that I should just get up and we opted to get out of there.

We located a police station and I went in.  The doors were locked to the interior lobby, but a sign there said you could use the provided phone to call 911 or come back between 7:00 AM and 11:00 PM.  It was 6:00 AM so I had one hour before they opened.  We went to breakfast and then went back to the station.  I spoke to a guy at the front desk, explaining what had happened.  I told him that at times it seemed as if Cray Cray was alone, but then sometimes it sounded as if he may have been with someone else.  He asked if I’d called 911 and I told him that I hadn’t.  He said they’d do a well-being check.  I thanked him and we went on our way, my conscience eased.

We drove out to Fantastic Caverns.  They didn’t open until 8:00 AM and we were about 20 minutes early, so I took a brief nap in the car.  I was exhausted, and the prospect of driving all day was really weighing on me.  I wasn’t myself at all because driving conditions were still not ideal, and the threat of another winter weather event was looming.  I was afraid I’d get too sleepy to drive at some point.  Poor Thiel had to put up with that version of Jeff for the whole day.  I was snippy and grumpy at points, and impatient.  Sorry, Thiel!

Fantastic Caverns is “North America’s only drive-through cave!” according to their billboards.  We were initially reticent to support a cave in which you are driven through by Jeep on a trailer, but we learned that the Jeeps are propane-powered.  Propane exhaust, we were told, is water vapor and carbon dioxide, just like human exhaust, so we didn’t feel like bad stewards of the planet.  We had to wait for them to get everything set up since we were the first customers of the day (and the only customers for the whole time we were there).  They were very nice people, and Sue, our tour guide, was a hoot.  The cave was interesting, as caves always are to me.  Our Jeep was having some trouble, especially at the end, where it was sputtering and wouldn’t restart.  We ended up walking out the exit to the cave and back up to the visitors’ center.

Next we drove back into Springfield to tour the Pythian Mansion, which was an orphanage built by the Knights of Pythias, a Mason-like organization, to care for orphans of members of the organization as well as elderly members and their widows.  It’s privately owned by a kooky woman and her mother.  They live in a portion of it and give tours of the rest.  It was mildly interesting, and our guide was kind of a dork, but I warmed up to her by the end.

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Pythian Mansion, Springfield, MO.

We left Springfield and drove through some really depressing towns on our way to Carthage, where we had lunch and a little bit of precipitation started happening.  We headed out and into Kansas, where we had decided to stop by and see Big Brutus, a gigantic power shovel that stands 16 stories tall.  It was much farther out of the way than we thought, and when we got there it was closed.  We didn’t even know it was an admission/museum kind of thing.  We thought you could just go see it, snap a picture, and be done with it.  We took some photos from the road and headed back the way we’d come (or so we thought).  We got so lost for so long that I wanted to scream, then cry, then curl up into a fetal position and just forget the world.   I was more tired than I’ve been in a very long time.  It got dark, then foggy, and there was mist, then snow falling.  At long last, after much confusion and backtracking and frustration, we found our way back to where we’d been before Big Brutus detoured us, and into Oklahoma.

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Big Brutus, West Mineral, KS.

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In a place called Quapaw (pronounced O-Gah-Pah for whatever reason), Oklahoma, there’s something called the Spooklight.  Since it was already dark we wanted to try to find it (it’s some weird ball of light that floats around and has been said to even enter cars), but we were so leery of going on a wild goose chase–for fear of getting lost again–that we didn’t even try to locate the spot where it supposedly happens once we realized it wasn’t right on the route we were taking.

It was time to find a place to spend the night so we kept our eyes peeled, but the area was pretty rural and there was nothing to be found yet.  We suddenly found ourselves dumped onto a gravel/dirt road, but there had been a sign just before that said we were still on Route 66.  Apparently we were on a portion of old road, but not the through portion that we should have been on.  We eventually realized that we were on the very original road bed in Oklahoma, which was only one lane.  The state didn’t have enough money in 1926, when it was built, to pave a two-lane road.  Not much of the pavement survives, but there were a couple of good stretches of it.  We drove and drove until we decided that this couldn’t possibly be the way we were supposed to be going, so we turned around and went back down the muddy road until we found where we’d been dumped onto it.  Very confusing.  We found our way back to the right place and finally found shelter in Vinita, Oklahoma.  I apologized to Thiel with as much sincerity as I could muster; I was so tired I couldn’t even show emotion.  Then I crashed and got some much-needed rest.

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Sidewalk Highway (one-lane Route 66) between Miami, OK and Afton, OK.

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P.S.  Anti-snoring strips work!

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(She may kill me for this.)

A Journey Down Route 66, Day Five

*NOTE:  Five years ago I began a journey across the country with Thiel, a dear friend of mine.  I was moving from Chicago to Long Beach, California, and she agreed to make the drive with me.  I present my journal of that journey on the corresponding day that it was recorded five years ago.  Enjoy reliving this adventure with me!

Day 5:  January 7, 2014

We got an early start to our day.  We were up, ready, breakfasted, checked out, and on the road by 9:00 AM.  The road was still a solid sheet of ice.  We drove a few miles down to Meramec Caverns in Stanton, Missouri, which has billboards all along the road for miles, as well as ads painted on roadside barns.  We arrived and were the only people there besides employees.  The next tour wasn’t to begin for 20 minutes, so we had to wait in case anyone else showed up.  They did not.  We got a private tour with a cute little tour guide named Ricky.  He was great, and the cave is a piece of roadside treasure, quite famous in those parts and with Route 66 enthusiasts.  There is a grand finale at the end which was pretty cheesy, but it’s all part of the experience.

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Meramec Caverns, Stanton, MO.

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Following the cave tour we hit the road once again, passing through town after town until we reached Fanning, Missouri, where we stopped to get pictures of the world’s largest rocking chair.  The temperature had warmed significantly from previous days and finally the salt was able to start working on the ice, but then sometimes there are patches of slush that are treacherous in their own way, so we still couldn’t get up a lot of speed.

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Fanning, MO.

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The World’s Largest Rocking Chair, Fanning, MO.

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Thiel with the World’s Largest Rocking Chair.

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Me with the World’s Largest Rocking Chair.

I wanted to stop by Onondaga Cave State Park, just a short detour off the road, so we drove there only to find that it’s closed for the season, until April.  Heading back out, our next point of interest was Devil’s Elbow, a particularly scenic part of the road overlooking the Big Piney River; there’s a sharp bend in the river there called the Devil’s Elbow.  Upon approaching the steel bridge that crosses the river on the old road, we found that it’s closed.  The bridge looked really old and I’m not sure if this is a permanent closure or if it’s just closed for maintenance, but we circled around and found our way to the other side of the bridge because that was the portion of the road that featured Devil’s Elbow.   We made a few pictures then were on our way again, passing through Waynesville where we saw Frog Rock, an outcropping of rock high up in the bank beside the road that resembles a frog and, natch, has been painted as one.

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We passed by this closed restaurant.  What a name!  I wonder what they served?!?

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Devil’s Elbow, MO.

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Another interestingly-named business.

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Frog Rock, Waynesville, MO.

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Yet another.  Waynesville, MO.

We reached Springfield, Missouri at dusk and grabbed some dinner, then found a room for the night.  Thiel has been lamenting since we ate that she didn’t go ahead and order a second cup of delicious tomato basil soup like she’d considered doing.  To placate her, and satisfy my own craving, we went to Dairy Queen and had Blizzards.  I guess we deserved one, having just driven through conditions resembling one for two whole days.

We’re in the land of weapons and Jesus, apparently, as there are billboards all over the place for both, as well as radio ads.  We even saw a billboard advertising auditions for “actors for Christ.”  Not sure what that’s all about, but apparently these people love their god and their guns.  Not sure which one is more popular.  We’ve seen megachurches and mega indoor archery ranges.

There are rumors of more weather heading this way, but I’ve heard conflicting reports, and we’ve been moving steadily west and south, so I’m not sure what to expect at this point.  We’re planning on getting an even earlier start tomorrow morning to see the two things we want to see in Springfield, then move on and make up some lost time.

A Journey Down Route 66, Day Four

*NOTE:  Five years ago I began a journey across the country with Thiel, a dear friend of mine.  I was moving from Chicago to Long Beach, California, and she agreed to make the drive with me.  I present my journal of that journey on the corresponding day that it was recorded five years ago.  Enjoy reliving this adventure with me!

Day 4:  January 6, 2014

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All that remains of a drive-in theater.

We woke up early to try to make some headway on our journey.  The roads had all been cleared, but not salted, so they were a solid sheet of ice.  Still, we were able to make better time even though we still had to watch our speed.

The car was acting funny; it was stuck in low four-wheel-drive.  I stopped by a service station and the guys there told me that it was probably packed with snow/ice or frozen, as they’ve had several cars with that problem since the storm.  They told me to put it in neutral and see if it would switch over, which I did, and it did.  Such a relief!

We pressed onward and finally reached the border of Illinois and Missouri.  We had to do some more backtracking due to poor signage, and stumbled upon the Chain of Rocks Bridge, which had no signage whatsoever, but I had wanted to see it.  It’s closed, so we couldn’t cross on it, alas.

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Chain of Rocks Bridge, Madison, IL.

We crossed the mighty Mississippi into St. Louis.  The road there is extremely confusing and we drove and drove with absolutely nothing to see except strip malls and boring suburbia.  We realized that it was taking us out of the city without even having gone downtown (the older route we took apparently didn’t enter downtown at all), so we jumped on the highway to go back.  We then realized that there was one town we were supposed to go through in Illinois that we hadn’t even reached somehow, so we took the highway back there to see the world’s largest catsup bottle, Cahokia Mounds State Park, and Woodhenge, all in Collinsville, Illinois.  Cahokia Mounds was a native settlement and features large burial mounds.  It was the largest settlement north of Mexico, covering six square miles.  It was bitterly cold as we got out of the car to go to the visitors’ center, which looked deserted, and when we reached it we were greeted with a sign that said it’s closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.  Today is Monday.  Womp womp!

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The world’s largest catsup (that’s how they spell it) bottle, Collinsville, IL.

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Cahokia Mounds State Park, Collinsville, IL.

We went down the road a bit to Woodhenge, which is a similar site to Stonehenge except made of wooden poles standing upright in the ground in a huge circle.  We didn’t get out of the car, just snapped photos from the road.

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Woodhenge, Collinsville, IL.

We crossed back over into St. Louis and followed signs to the Gateway Arch.  At the parking garage all the entrance gates said “Out of tickets,” so we found another parking lot nearby.  There was nobody around; it was like a ghost town.  Even the parking lots had their gates raised so they were all unmanned and free.  We walked to the arch, freezing, and found that it was closed due to the weather.

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Gateway Arch, St. Louis, MO.

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We had to turn around and walk all the way back to the car without anywhere to warm up first and it was really uncomfortable.  We drove to another parking lot a couple of blocks away because I spied a restaurant that looked open and we were hungry and desperate to pee.  We went in and were two of four customers in the very large space.  It was really cold in there; the heat couldn’t keep up.  We ate and went back to the car to warm up, then headed back out to where we’d left off the old road.

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Trying not to freeze to death in a restaurant in St. Louis, MO.

It was once again confusing, and we somehow got dumped onto the interstate.  As before, I got off as soon as we figured out we weren’t really in the right place and I turned around and went back so we could find the old road again.  Finally we got reoriented and continued through seemingly endless suburbia.  The entire way the road is a sheet of ice.  The next thing we want to see is Meramac Caverns, so we stopped at the town before it to spend the night.  We’re currently in St. Clair, Missouri, in a lovely motel and hope to get an early start in the morning.  It seems that there is less snow on the ground here so I think we’re finally inching out of the storm zone.  Perhaps we can make better time from here on out.